
From pattern to garment: Favorite Pants
In this journal post, we’ll take a closer look at the making process, essential techniques, and finishing touches that bring the Favorite Pants to life.
Favorite Pants is a good place to start, if you're new to sewing, or would like to take on a smaller project. Favorite Pants only has one pattern piece and a few seams to sew.
Story behind the pattern
The kids' version was the first pattern I drafted — inspired by my 1 yo daughter. She began to walk and I wanted to dress her in real pants instead of the leggings she had been using as an infant. The original work title was "One-hour-pants" as the intention was to make a beginner-friendly pattern so everyone could be successful and make pants in an hour. Later on, Favorite Pants for adults was added to the collection.
What can I expect from the fit?
This pattern is unisex and designed with an ultra-simple form to ensure an easy sewing process. The fit features a straight leg, offering a clean and timeless look. You may need to adjust the length to suit individual preferences. A guide for that, is included in the sewing manual.
What sewing techniques are used?
This project will take you through making a waistband with elastic casing, sewing a crotch seam, placing pockets and a double folded hem.
How long does it take?
Sewing the pants is estimated to take around 3 hours. First time using a pattern, there might be a learning curve. Second time, you will experience becoming faster and more familiar with the steps and techniques involved.
What fabrics are suitable?
For the kids' version, I have been sewing them in almost any fabric. Cotton, linen, wool blends, corduroy and light denim. They all work, but I would say the best results are using Cotton Poplin, linen and corduroy. For adults, you want to be careful with heavier fabrics. The elastic waistband carries all the weight and without any shaping darts, the garment can become clumsy and unflattering. Keep it simple — sew in Cotton Poplin, a light wool suiting, linen or even satin silk.
Keep in mind that your fabric choice significantly impacts the difficulty of the project. Cotton is easy to work with and an ideal choice for beginners.
What do I need for the project?
- A sewing machine
- Iron + iron board
- Scissors for paper and fabric
- Measuring tape, pins and a safety pin
- Fabric (a light- or medium weight cotton or linen)
- Matching thread
- Waistband elastic (2 cm wide for kids, 3 cm wide for adults)
A closer look at the sewing process
I've gathered my best sewing tips below. Hopefully, you can integrate some of it guide you through every step of this beginner-friendly pattern.
Pockets
The pattern features two pocket shapes — a square pocket (fig. 1) and a round pocket (fig. 2). The square shape is easier to make. You can add one or two pockets to the back. Up to you.
Seams
After sewing two layers together, you'll need to finish the seam to prevent fraying. You can use a wide zigzag on your machine or an overlock seam if you have an overlocker machine available (fig. 3). French seams is also an option (fig. 4), but only in light fabrics like poplin. Add 2-5 mm extra seam allowance where you wish to make french seams (inseam and crotch seam). The pattern has 1cm seam allowance included in the pattern.
Pressing the foldlines
Folding and pressing the foldlines, at the waistline and the hem, is a very helpful step. Later on, it's easier to fold the the casing and the hem (fig. 5).
The waistband fold line is slightly curved and must be manipulated during ironing.
Sew the crotch seam
For beginners, this part may be scary. One leg goes into the other one (fig. 6), with right sides facing. Pin at the inseam first, and then use 4-6 needles to secure the seam.
Final thoughts
The Favorite Pants is an excellent project for those looking to add homemade garments to their kids' or their own wardrobe. Once you've got the hang of it — It's a pattern you are likely to be using again and again, as your child grows and your own handmade wardrobe takes shape, one thoughtful piece at a time.
With this sewing process mastered, you can also sew the Favorite Shorts...
Visit Instagram for how-to-videos